Table of Content
- What Are Hearts and Arrows Diamonds?
- Hearts and Arrows Diamond Buying Guide
- Hearts and Arrows Cuts Comparison
- How to See the Hearts and Arrows Pattern in Diamonds
- What Rings Work for Hearts and Arrows Diamond Cuts
- Hearts and Arrows Diamond Prices
- Who Doesn’t Like Hearts and Arrows Diamonds?
- Beware of These Things Before Buying a Hearts and Arrows Diamonds
- Lab Hearts and Arrows Diamonds
- Are Hearts and Arrows Diamonds Worth It?
- Brian Gavin Diamonds Signature Hearts and Arrows Diamonds
- How BGD Redefined Hearts and Arrows Diamonds
- The Ideal Signature Cut
- Cut Beyond Brilliant® - The Distinct Difference
Known as a “super-ideal” cut version of the traditional 57-faceted round brilliant cut, a Hearts and Arrows diamond is carefully cut and polished to exact proportions, symmetry, and polish. These extraordinary gems have a superior quality and brilliance than traditional cut diamonds, and offer a truly unique and dynamic pattern for the wearer. However, when selecting a Hearts and Arrows diamond, there are a few key things to look out for to avoid inferior performing diamonds.
What Are Hearts and Arrows Diamonds?
Heart and arrow diamonds feature incredible light performance with a visual pattern of eight “hearts” visible through the pavilion (the bottom or pointed section of the diamond) and eight “arrows” when the stone is viewed in the table-up position. This visual phenomenon was nicknamed the “Cupid effect,” and these diamonds became known in the trade as “Hearts and Arrows.”
The Hearts and Arrows pattern in diamonds serves an important purpose. Not only do they create a beautiful visual effect, but they also indicate that the diamond has been cut with impeccable precision. The precise cutting of Hearts and Arrows allows for maximum white light return, brightness, scintillation and fire, making them some of the most sought-after diamonds in the world.
In some cases, you will see “H&A” inscribed on the girdle edge of a diamond. This can indicate that the diamond may be a Hearts and Arrows cut. However, not all diamonds with this inscription are true Hearts and Arrows diamonds.
Some may have been inscribed simply as a marketing tactic. That's why it’s important to look for additional performance indicators of precision cutting when purchasing a Hearts and Arrows diamond. After all, not all Hearts and Arrows diamonds are cut the same.
With that in mind, here is our in-depth buying guide for Hearts and Arrows diamonds. We’ll unravel the mystery behind these exceptional diamonds and provide you with the information you need to make an informed decision.
BACK TO TOPHearts and Arrows Diamond Buying Guide
When trying to decide between Hearts and Arrows diamonds, there are four main factors to consider:
- Proportions angles
- Precision symmetry
- Optical symmetry
- Light performance
Let’s take a closer look at each of these elements and how they contribute to the overall quality of the diamond.
Proportions for Maximum Light Return
Cutting diamonds so the crown and pavilion angle reflect just the right offset ensures the highest volume of light return. It also ensures a virtual balance of brilliance (white brightness) and dispersion (colored sparkle). The sparkle will be broad spectrum. This means it is larger, bolder, brighter, and more vivid!
As a fifth-generation diamond cutter, Brian Gavin knows how to cut diamonds to deliver maximum light performance and optimize visual balance.
See patent and press release.
While many diamond cutters focus on weight recovery, Brian intends for every diamond to be precisely cut to his patented measurements to maximize light performance and, in return, also cause the diamond to exhibit a Hearts and Arrows patterning.
Optical Precision Beyond Excellent or Ideal Symmetry
Gemological laboratories like the AGS and the GIA* grade diamonds for “meet point symmetry.” This is based on how closely the points of the facets align with each other. However, even diamonds cut with excellent or ideal symmetry can leak light and perform poorly.
When the degree of optical symmetry is optimized so that the diamond's facets are precisely aligned, indexed, and shaped consistently, the diamond will exhibit a crisp and complete pattern of Hearts and Arrows.
Every Brian Gavin Signature round exhibits a crisp and complete pattern of Hearts and Arrows, evidence of its superior optical precision.
Note: The AGS IP has been taken over by GIA and now issue the Light Performance Report.
Superior Light Return and Incredible Sparkle in All Lighting Conditions
In jewelry stores, even diamonds of lowest cut quality can appear to sparkle impressively under the specialized, pinpoint lighting conditions they use. At Brian Gavin Diamonds, we call this phenomenon the Walt Disney Effect. It occurs because this particular type of lighting is engineered to enhance the appearance of diamonds that are not well-cut, making them seem more brilliant than they actually are.
However, this isn't reflective of how we typically view diamonds in everyday life, where lighting is mostly diffused and not focused like the pinpoint lighting in stores. This kind of artificial enhancement doesn't match the real-world lighting conditions most people experience.
Contrastingly, Brian Gavin Signature diamonds are designed to excel in any lighting environment, whether it be the diffused lighting found in most real-world settings or the pinpoint lighting found in jewelry stores. These diamonds are crafted to ensure maximum beauty and sparkle, regardless of where you are or the lighting conditions you're in.
BACK TO TOPHearts and Arrows Cuts Comparison
Hearts and Arrows (H&A) diamonds represent the pinnacle of precision in diamond cutting, offering unmatched brilliance and fire. These diamonds are distinguished by their exceptional optical symmetry, showcasing eight symmetrical hearts and eight arrows when viewed under special scopes. This pattern results from precise cutting that maximizes light performance, making H&A diamonds more brilliant and fiery than standard ideal cuts. The meticulous craftsmanship involved sets H&A diamonds apart from other cuts, ensuring superior visual appeal and light performance
When buying diamonds, shoppers often wonder if Hearts and Arrows are the best cut or simply how it compares to other cuts. Let’s look closer at how Hearts and Arrows compare to other popular diamond cuts.
Hearts and Arrows vs. Round Brilliant Cut
Many confuse Hearts and Arrows diamonds with standard round brilliant cuts due to their similar facet structure. However, this is like equating a Ford Taurus with a Lamborghini just because both are cars. Both diamonds have 58 facets and can display the Hearts and Arrows pattern, but creating a precise Hearts and Arrows pattern requires exceptional precision and craftsmanship. Slight variations in facet size, shape, or alignment can disrupt the pattern.
While all Hearts and Arrows diamonds are round brilliants, not all round brilliants achieve the Hearts and Arrows pattern. Standard round brilliant cuts can have excellent light performance, but the precise facet alignment of H&A diamonds takes their brilliance and fire to the next level, making Hearts and Arrows diamonds a superior choice for those seeking the utmost in diamond beauty
Hearts and Arrows Cut vs. Ideal Cut
While both Hearts and Arrows and ideal cut diamonds are known for their excellent proportions and symmetry, Hearts and Arrows diamonds go beyond with perfect optical symmetry. This additional precision enhances their brilliance and fire, making Hearts and Arrows diamonds a subset of ideal cuts but with stricter standards for symmetry. The result is a diamond that sparkles more intensely and displays superior light performance.
Many people assume Hearts and Arrows and ideal cut diamonds are the same. However, most ideal-cut diamonds do not exhibit the crisp and complete patterns of Hearts and Arrows. The rarity of perfectly crisp and complete Hearts and Arrows patterns is not necessarily due to a lack of skill among diamond cutters.
Instead, it often comes down to a strategic decision regarding weight retention and efficiency. Many cutters choose not to dedicate the additional time and resources required to achieve a higher level of optical precision. This decision is frequently driven by a desire to optimize for cost-efficiency, prioritizing the diamond's price point over the meticulous craftsmanship that such precision demands.
When choosing between Hearts and Arrows vs. ideal cut diamonds, many people ultimately prefer Hearts and Arrows diamonds because they appear larger. This is due to their higher degree of light return and edge-to-edge sparkle. In contrast, standard ideal cut diamonds often have a darker middle section and outer edges, making them seem smaller, especially from afar.
Hearts and Arrows vs. Princess Cut
It’s crucial to note that the facet structure of a princess-cut diamond does not lend itself to creating Hearts and Arrows patterns: it’s not possible to produce hearts and arrows princess-cut diamonds.
Hearts and Arrows diamonds, typically round brilliants, are known for their symmetrical optical patterns and superior light performance. In contrast, princess cuts are square or rectangular with pointed corners and a different facet arrangement. While princess cuts can be highly brilliant, they do not exhibit the Hearts and Arrows pattern. The choice between these cuts often comes down to personal preference in shape and style.
While round diamonds have eight pavilion main facets on their lower half, which create the arrow pattern, the light reflecting off these same facets also creates the heart pattern. However, as mentioned earlier, this is impossible with princess-cut diamonds due to their different facet structure
Hearts and Arrows vs. Cushion Cut
Cushion cut diamonds have a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and larger facets that enhance their brilliance and dispersion. Although cushion cuts can be beautiful and sparkly, they lack the precise optical symmetry of Hearts and Arrows diamonds. H&A diamonds, with their perfect facet alignment, maximize light performance, whereas cushion cuts offer a softer, vintage look.
A Brian Gavin Signature Cushion Cut Diamond, covered under U.S. Patent No. D704,178S, exhibits a beautiful pattern of Hearts and Arrows thanks to its precise optical symmetry. It is rare to find a cushion cut diamond that exhibits a true hHearts and Arrows pattern due to the challenges of cutting and polishing this particular shape
How to See the Hearts and Arrows Pattern in Diamonds
Curious how one can see the heart pattern in Hearts and Arrows diamonds? The answer lies in using a special viewer known as a Hearts and Arrows scope. This tool allows you to view the 8 hearts pattern from the culet side (which is the point of the diamond) and 8 arrows from the Table side.
BACK TO TOPWhat Rings Work for Hearts and Arrows Diamond Cuts
Hearts and Arrows diamonds are versatile and look stunning in various ring settings. Classic solitaire settings highlight their brilliance, while halo and pave settings add extra sparkle. Three-stone settings can also complement H&A diamonds by adding side stones that enhance the central diamond’s beauty. Choosing a setting that allows ample light to enter the diamond will maximize its visual impact
Black by Brian Gavin and Brian Gavin Signature Hearts and Arrows diamonds are round or cushion cut. Thus, most engagement rings will accommodate a Hearts and Arrows diamond because round and cushion cuts are popular shapes featured in most engagement rings.
The milgrain halo setting by Brian Gavin is a perfect example of a popular engagement ring set with a round Hearts and Arrows diamond in the center. Hidden halo is much more popular now.
As you might imagine, it’s rather easy to find an engagement ring for a Hearts and Arrows round or cushion cut diamond. Our online catalog of diamond engagement rings is full of popular choices. Of course, we’re happy to custom-create the engagement ring of your dreams if you have something else in mind.
BACK TO TOPHearts and Arrows Diamond Prices
Next up in our buying guide, let’s discuss the prices of Hearts and Arrows diamonds.
Hearts and Arrows diamonds typically command a higher price than standard ideal cuts due to the additional craftsmanship and material required to achieve their perfect symmetry. The more perfect the Hearts and Arrows pattern, the higher the price, similar to how higher color (D compared to L) and clarity grades (VVS1 compared to SI2) increase a diamond's value.
It’s a little-known fact that Diamond Cut Quality (the most important of the 4C’s) can affect the value of a diamond by as much as sixty percent. This explains why poorly cut diamonds cost less than diamonds that exhibit the higher degree of optical precision necessary to create Hearts and Arrows. Prices can vary widely based on carat weight, color, clarity, and other factors, but they generally carry a premium over other diamonds with similar specifications but without the H&A pattern..
Another misconception is that a diamond with an overall cut grade of AGS Ideal-0 or GIA Excellent will automatically exhibit the best light performance. Unfortunately, this assumption is far from the truth because each cut grade represents a range or spectrum of possibility. Further, the gemological laboratories do not account for optical precision as part of the evaluation process.
This means it’s up to you to verify the degree of optical precision by evaluating the reflector scope images designed to judge optical performance. Specifically, these would be an ASET Scope, Hearts and Arrows Scope, and Ideal Scope image. Each scope is designed for a specific purpose. The images are not interchangeable, so be sure to get all three when buying an H&A diamond
BACK TO TOPWho Doesn’t Like Hearts and Arrows Diamonds?
It’s safe to say most people are drawn to the beauty and visual impact of Hearts and Arrows diamonds. With their precise cut, stunning symmetry, and dazzling light performance, it’s no wonder why these diamonds are highly sought after. However, there are always exceptions to every rule. For various reasons, some people may not be as attracted to Hearts and Arrows diamonds.
Some may prefer more unique or unconventional diamond cuts, while others may be unaware of the beauty and significance of Hearts and Arrows diamonds. However, it’s important to note that even if someone doesn’t like Hearts and Arrows diamonds, they can still appreciate the skill and craftsmanship that goes into creating them. While many appreciate the superior light performance and beauty of Hearts and Arrows diamonds, some may not find the premium cost justified.
Others might prefer different shapes like princess or cushion cuts, or they might prioritize carat size over the precision of the cut. Additionally, those who are not concerned with the microscopic details of diamond cuts might not see the value in paying extra for H&A diamonds
BACK TO TOPBeware of These Things Before Buying a Hearts and Arrows Diamonds
When purchasing Hearts and Arrows diamonds, it is crucial to verify the authenticity of the H&A pattern using specialized scopes. Ensure the diamond comes with certification from reputable gemological laboratories like AGS or GIA. Be wary of misleading marketing, as not all diamonds marketed as H&A meet the strict criteria. Reviewing detailed images and understanding the diamond’s proportions and symmetry are essential.
When shopping for any diamond, there are certain scams or misleading information to be aware of along the way. With Hearts and Arrows diamonds, three things in particular to watch out for are:
- Phony Images: When shopping for diamonds online, beware of vendors who photoshop their images of Hearts and Arrows diamonds. Many of them will touch up photographs to cover up imperfections in their diamonds.
- False Claims: Some vendors may claim their “signature diamonds” exhibit true Hearts and Arrows patterns. It’s important to have this verified before making an investment.
- Dark Spots: Often dark spots will appear in images of diamonds. These areas can be the result of where the light was positioned when the photograph was taken, but it’s critical to clarify their source
Lab Hearts and Arrows Diamonds
There has been a growing trend in recent years of lab-grown diamonds, which are human-made diamonds with the same chemical and physical properties as natural diamonds. While traditional Hearts and Arrows diamonds form over millions of years, lab-grown Hearts and Arrows take a few weeks to create. This is an incredible feat of technology and science that many consumers are eager to take advantage of.
Lab-grown Hearts and Arrows diamonds offer a more affordable alternative to natural diamonds. They possess the same chemical, physical, and optical properties as natural H&A diamonds, including the distinctive Hearts and Arrows pattern. Lab-grown diamonds have similar longevity to natural diamonds, are extremely durable, and can withstand everyday activities.
Are Hearts and Arrows Diamonds Worth It?
Hearts and Arrows diamonds are ideal for those who value superior light performance and perfect symmetry, offering unmatched brilliance and fire. They are a desirable choice for high-quality diamond seekers, though their premium cost may not be justifiable for everyone, especially if the visual differences are not easily discernible without specialized equipment.
These diamonds cost more than standard ideal cut diamonds because they require more time on the wheel to polish and greater skill from the cutter. However, the extra expense is worth it due to the higher degree of optical precision, which produces more virtual facets and results in a more vivid and intense sparkle. Imagine a diamond that sparkles so vividly that it commands attention from across the room—that’s the allure of a Hearts and Arrows diamond.
BACK TO TOPBrian Gavin Diamonds Signature Hearts and Arrows Diamonds
So, what exactly makes Brian Gavin Hearts and Arrows Diamonds better than the rest?
Performance
When you’re buying a Hearts and Arrows diamond, you have so many options to choose from. Beyond the basic “4 Cs” (carat, color, clarity, cut) used to measure a diamond’s quality, there is another level of excellence and perfection that involves the symmetry and reflective quality of a diamond’s cut - another “C” that affects and potentially enhances all the others: cut performance.
Brian Gavin holds a patent for maximizing light performance in modern round brilliant cut diamonds. This patent, identified as US Patent No. 10,405,618, covers the specific proportions, polishing process, and performance techniques that enhance the optical precision and sparkle of the diamonds. The patented method involves creating more virtual facets within the diamond, which significantly increases its brilliance and fire. This innovation makes Brian Gavin's diamonds, particularly those in the Black by Brian Gavin® collection, stand out for their superior light performance and intense sparkle.
The cut determines how well a diamond performs, which refers to how well it reflects light under various lighting conditions and situations. Practically any stone will look impressive under the bright spotlights of a jewelry store. Still, a rare few have the unique combination of precise cut, shape, and angles to hold their brilliance in more natural lighting situations.
This distinguishes Brian Gavin Signature Hearts and Arrows Diamonds – diamonds embody the perfect marriage of brilliance, fire, and dazzling scintillation, unrivaled by ordinary diamonds. Where words end, your Brian Gavin Signature Hearts and Arrows diamond will carry on, adding new, unending expressions of your love.
Quality and Trust
Brian Gavin is a fifth-generation diamond cutter and creator of his internationally renowned Signature Hearts and Arrows diamond. Being a recognized authority and consultant on diamond cutting and jewelry design, you are assured of superior quality and service backed by the knowledge and expertise of five generations of expert diamond cutters.
Heritage, history, trust, world-renowned expertise - and the most beautiful diamonds available in the world - are the mark of a Brian Gavin Signature diamond.
Enhancing Ideal Cut
Diamonds are cut to “ideal” mathematical proportions. These proportions ensure every facet is placed at exact angles to create a perfect balance between optimum brilliance (return of light to the eye) and the scattering of light, or “fire” (this is the prism effect that separates white light into its spectral colors).
To achieve this optimum reflection and refraction of light, the cutter must be willing to sacrifice valuable carat weight to yield a smaller diamond with superior beauty.
BACK TO TOPHow BGD Redefined Hearts and Arrows Diamonds
The Hearts and Arrows cut was developed in the 1980s by Japanese cutters who produced diamonds cut so precisely that the facet reflections created overlapping, kaleidoscopic patterns when seen through reflecting viewers.
These diamonds created a visual pattern of eight “hearts” visible through the pavilion (the bottom or pointed section of the diamond) and eight “arrows” when the stone was viewed in the table-up position. This visual phenomenon was nicknamed the “Cupid effect,” and these diamonds became known in the trade as “Hearts and Arrows.”
In 1997, Brian and his father, Benjamin Gavin, researched and refined the 90s version of the Hearts and Arrows design. Their combined knowledge in cut and light performance, based on five generations of experience, helped them achieve a notable improvement on the standard Hearts and Arrows design of the day.
They enhanced the “performance” quality of the diamond and improved its light reflective performance under all lighting conditions.
The Ideal Signature Cut
These enhancements, introduced in 1998, set a new quality benchmark and created a new grading system for the worldwide standard Hearts and Arrows pattern cut. They earned Gavin the reputation worldwide as “The Cutter.” Today, Gavin’s Ideal Signature cut is recognized as the standard other companies emulate.
In March 2009, Gavin launched his new Brian Gavin Signature Hearts and Arrows diamonds. These stones are cut to even more exacting standards for quality and brilliance.
Every Brian Gavin Signature Hearts and Arrows diamond has earned the coveted AGS 0 grade for Light Performance. This grade was accompanied by the new AGS Platinum Diamond Quality Document introduced in January 2009 and then the Proprietary Light Performance Diamond Quality Document from November 2011.
BACK TO TOPCut Beyond Brilliant® - The Distinct Difference
These signature-cut diamonds are optically balanced for maximum visual performance. This signature quality reveals the beauty and personality of each diamond. It gives voice to the inner essence of the diamond through its contrast, brightness, and scintillation. You’ll appreciate This distinct difference in each Brian Gavin Signature Hearts and Arrows diamond.
Now, Brian Gavin is the only online retailer with the most extensive in-house inventory of true H&A diamonds, and more consumers worldwide are purchasing them for their superior light performance and cut quality.
“Each Signature Hearts and Arrows diamond communicates its special meaning and emotion. No other stone can speak as clearly as your heart’s message of love.” Brian Gavin
BACK TO TOP