EGL graded Hearts and Arrows diamonds vs Brian Gavin Signature

I’m shopping for an e-ring online and was just about to pull the trigger on this 0.508 carat, F-color, VS-2 clarity, Brian Gavin Signature hearts and arrows diamond, but then another dealer suggested this diamond (pictured left) as an alternative and it seems like a better deal. It’s graded by the EGL, has the same clarity and color grades, and also exhibits a pattern of hearts and arrows. Do you see any reason why I should buy the BGD Signature diamond over this one? – M.S.

What is a Hearts and Arrows diamond?

In order for you to understand why I feel that the Brian Gavin Signature diamond is the superior choice, I first need to explain what a “hearts and arrows diamond” is and what it is not… a true hearts and arrows diamond exhibits a crisp and complete pattern of hearts and arrows, like the one that is exhibited by the 0.508 carat, F-color, VS-2 clarity, BGD Signature diamond that is pictured to the left. Now compare this pattern of hearts to the hearts picture featured in the upper right corner of the EGL diamond grading report referenced above, do you see how those “hearts” look more like V’s or perhaps even rabbit ears? Quite simply, those aren’t hearts by Japanese grading standards.

While some round brilliant cut diamonds exhibit a pattern which could loosely be referred to as hearts, it is merely a result of how light reflects off of the facets of a standard round brilliant cut diamond; for the pattern of hearts to appear crisp and complete, the cutter must cut the diamond so that every facet is the same size and shape per section, and indexed just right, so that the light reflects off of one set of pavilion facets on to another to create the pattern… precise patterns of hearts and arrows do not occur by accident.

EGL Graded Diamonds vs AGSL Graded Diamonds:

While it might seem to the public that all gemological laboratories are the same, the fact is that diamond graded by the European Gem Lab (EGL) tend to be sold at a discount, because seasoned diamond buyers, like those who work within the diamond industry, recognize that the grading standards are not as strict as the American Gem Society Laboratory (AGSL) or the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) which are considered to be Top Tier Laboratories.

Based upon my experience, I imagine that if we submitted the F-color, VS-2 clarity, EGL graded diamond which you are considering to the AGS Laboratory for grading, that it would come back graded as a lower clarity and color, perhaps as much as two color and clarity grades.

In addition, I noticed that the crown height of the diamond is 14% and the pavilion depth of the diamond is 44% these proportions are not acceptable for a Brian Gavin Signature round diamond, the crown height is too shallow, and the pavilion depth is too deep, and should result in a substantial decrease in the volume of light return and the sparkle factor… you’re essentially comparing a finely tuned Ferrari to an economy sedan, and this is why there is a difference in price.